Ravelry Rocks!

Friday, January 31, 2014

Dead Crow Hat

Option 2 wings
Option 1 wings 
This pattern is for personal use only, no selling finished products.  This was quite fun for me to make.  I was working on this, waiting for my daughter to come out of her Kobudo class and received some strange looks as I had dead crow parts in my lap.

Let's get started!
Worsted: dark brown, light brown, gray black
H hook
polyfil stuffing
beads, if desired
Dead Crow
Head

  1. Magic ring, ch 1, 8 sc in ring; join (8 sc)
  2. Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc; join (16 sc)
  3. ch 1, sc in each sc; join (16 sc)
  4. repeat round 3
  5. repeat round 3
  6. chain 1, dec around (8 sc)
  7. ch 1, (dec, sc in next sc) repeat around (5 sc) at this point, you will lightly stuff your head do NOT finish off
  8. Beginning body: ch 1, sc in sc * 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * around; join (7 sc)
  9. ch 1, 2 sc in each sc; join (14 sc)
  10. ch 1, * sc in sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * join (21 sc)
  11. ch 1, *sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around (28 sc)
  12. ch 1, sc in each sc; join (28 sc)
  13. repeat round 12
  14. repeat round 12
  15. repeat round 12
  16. ch 1, *sc in 2 sc, dec; repeat from * around; join 
  17. ch 1, *sc in 2 sc, dec; repeat from * around; join
  18. repeat round 17
  19. repeat round 17 stuff body lightly do NOT finish off
  20. Beginning tail-pinch closed and sc in each sc across going through both layers (3 sc)
  21. ch 1, turn, sc in each sc
  22. ch 1, turn, sc in sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc 
  23. ch 1 turn, sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc
  24. ch 1, turn, sc in each sc
  25. repeat round 24
  26. ch 2, turn, dc in same sttich, ch 2, sl in next 2 stitches, ch 2, 2 dc in last stitch; finish off-you may sc around the outer edge of tail to keep it from curling-just put 3 sc in each point of the tail and instead of a sc put a sl st in the center of the points
Wings Option 1 (make two) These are the directions for the first set (shown in first photo) I just got done making a second set (second photo) but I LOVE how they turned out.  If you want those instead use option 2
  1. ch 23, sc in 2nd chain and each chain
  2. ch 2 (counts as dc) turn, dc in each sc
  3. ch 2, turn, dc in same stitch, ch 2, sl in next stitch, ch 3, TDC in same stitch, TDC in next stitch, ch 3, sl  st in next stitch, ch 2, dc in remaining dc
  4. ch 2, turn, dc in 11 dc, ch 3, TDC in same stitch, TDC in next stitch, ch 3, sl in same stitch, * ch 3, TDC in next stitch, TDC in next stitch, ch 3, sl in same stitch; repeat from * twice more, finish off
  5. join in top of ch 2 from round 4, ch 2, dc in same stitch, ch 2, sl in next stitich, ch 2, * 2 dc in next stitch, ch 2, sl in next stitch, repeat from * till you get to the end of the feather from row 4; finish off
take a pipe cleaner and place along the unused loops of beginning chain.  Sc around the pipe cleaner and then into the unused loops across the front of the wing; finish off, leaving tail to sew the wings onto body


Wings Option 2: 

  1. ch 23, sc in 2nd chain and each chain (22 sc)
  2. ch 1, turn sc in each sc (22 sc)
  3. repeat row 2
  4. repeat row 2
  5. repeat row 2
  6. repeat row 2.  After completing this row fold in half (hot-dog style or length wise) and sc across the bottom edges (through both layers) and one of the sides do NOT finish off.  Stuff lightly and sew other end closed
  7. sl st to the bottom edge (the long side) of wing, ch 2, 2dc in next stitch, ch 2, sl in next stitch, ch 2, dc in each of the next 18 dc
  8. ch 2, turn, dc in 7 dc, sc in 10 dc, 
  9. ch 2, turn, 2 dc in 1st dc, ch 2, sl in next stitch * ch 2, dc in 2 stitches, ch 2, sl in next stitch; repeat from * across; finish off and leave a tail for sewing
second wing:
repeat rows 1-6
7.  sl to bottom edge, ch 2, dc in 17 dc,( ch 2, sl in next stitch, ch 2, dc in next 2) feather made) stitches finish off.
8.  join in dc after the feather, ch 1, sc in next 10 stitches, dc in next 7 stitches
9.  same as row 9 in first wing

Attach wings to body-when you attach them you will want to put the base of the wing so it is perpendicular to the body-this will help give the wing that 'outward' look.  Sew tightly and finish off. 



Beak
  1. magic ring, chain 1, 4 sc in ring; join
  2. ch 1, sc in each sc; join
  3. ch 1, 2 sc in sc, sc in 4 sc, 2 sc in sc (don't bother joining, we aren't really counting rounds now just count stitches)
  4. sc in 6 sc

Hat  (this is a basic hat pattern-you can use whatever beanie pattern you like for the increase part so you get the sizing right-I am putting the size I used which gave me a 22" hat just start on round 9 after your increases if it is a smaller hat-if it is a larger hat you may want to add a few dc around before you hit round 9)
  1. with dark brown magic ring, ch 2 (counts as dc throughout), 11 dc in ring; join
  2. ch 2, dc in same dc, 2dc in each dc; join (24dc)
  3. ch 2, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc; repeat from * around; join (36dc)
  4. ch 2, dc in next dc, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc; repeat from * around, join (48 dc)
  5. ch 2, dc around (but put another  7 increases in this round-about every 5-6 stitches) (55dc)
  6. ch 2, dc in each dc around; join (55dc)
  7. repeat round 6
  8. repeat round 6
  9. ch 2, BPDC around; join
  10. repeat round 6
  11. repeat round 9
  12. repeat round 6
  13. switch to light brown and repeat round 9
  14. in BL only repeat round 6
  15. repeat round 14
  16. with dark brown repeat round 9
  17. repeat round 8; finish off

    Light brown finishing:  With light brown, attach in the light brown loops you see peeking from under round 12; ch 2 and dc in each of those light brown loops;  join

    Repeat round 14; finish off.
Sew bird onto hat.  You can embroider eyes on your bird, or sew black beads on...however you like-mine actually doesn't have eyes yet.  DOH!  



Thursday, January 30, 2014

Tusken Raider Hat aka Sand People


Confessions of a Star Wars lover: When I was little, Star Wars (what is known to some as the FIRST one which is really the fourth episode) played quite often on cable TV. The one thing that scared me more than anything has ever scared me-past or present-was that brief glimpse of the Tusken Raider standing over Luke making that horrible sound raising his pole above his head. Sometimes, I find that my life calls me to be a Tusken Raider…I admit, that when I find a really big stick, I do, on occasion, lift it above my head and give my very best Tusken Raider impersonation. I get mad when no one knows what I am doing. Ya’ll need to get your geek on.
So, yes, although this project was traumatizing in that these things terrified me, it was also liberating because I own those stitches….Tusken Raiders no longer have a power over me. :P
This pattern is for personal use only, and no selling of projects is allowed (unless, of course you have permissions from all those powers that be, and in that case you are my hero) .

Worsted:  I used Red Heart Super Saver (I know yarn snobs will tsk tsk at me, but I prefer using red heart when making embellishments that stand up-it's just stiff like that. Cream (or light brown) for the main hat part (this you could probably get away with a softer yarn, but I didn't, orangish/brown (or a darker brown), black, white, grey
H hook
Tapestry needle
2, 1”-1.5” buttons
special instructions:


Adult (hat circumference 21.2”) This is just the pattern that fits my head so I use it when making hats-you can use whatever hat base pattern you want that fits your size-just do it all in the creamy or light brown color.
1.       Magic ring, 12 dc in ring; join
2.       Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in same dc, *2dc in each dc around; join
3.       Ch 2, 2dc in next dc, *dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc; repeat from * around, join
4.       Ch 2, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, *dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc; repeat from * around, join 48
5.       Ch 2, dc in next 7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, *dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc; repeat from * around, join (53 dc=21.2”)
6.       Ch 2, dc in each dc around; join
7.       Repeat round 6 until hat is 7.5-8” in height (or desired height) when folded (from top to bottom)  If you like, you can add a sc row around bottom for a finished edge.

Ear Scarves (2)

(same color that you used for hat) Fold hat in half.  Each ear scarf will start 5 dc from the center point of the hat (this will put them slightly off center so that they are more centered towards the back of the hat).  Have front of hat facing you (if you have a side that you like better, this should be your front.  I always have my turning points in the back.  Count 5 dc from each center point, place a stitch marker at each of these points
1.       Join with sl st into stitch marker, Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in next 12 dc
2.       Ch 2 (counts as dc), dc in each dc across
3.       Repeat round 2; 29 more times or until your ear scarf measures 18.5 inches (or more or less depending on how long you want it-just be sure to make your second scarf the same length as your first.
Finishing: After you finish your second ear scarf, sc around the edge of hat and ear scarves, putting 3 sc in the corner of each ear scarf to make a nice corner.

Place a button  (that is small enough to fit through a dc but large enough to not slip off a dc) on the last  round of dc on hat.  To attach the ear scarves, you should put one ear scarf corner onto button then place the other ear scarf corner onto other button.  You can play around with placement of the ear scarves because you can use them to cover your face also, depending on how you place them on the buttons.  This is a very practical  (as well as a geeky necessity) hat!

Mouth
1.       With black, chain 11, sc in 2nd chain and each chain across
2.       Turn, dec, sc in 6 sc, dec
3.       Turn, dec, sc in 2 sc, dec
4.       Turn, dec, dec
5.       Sc around the edge of mouth, putting 3sc in the center of each corner.
“teeth” With White
1.       Chain 7, sc in 2nd chain, in next stitch( YO, insert hook, pull up loop) 4 times PUFF stitch made, sc in next stitch, PUFF in next stitch, sc in last stitch
2.       Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc
3.       Ch 1, turn, PUFF in 1st sc, sc in next stitch, PUFF in next stitch, sc in next stitch, PUFF in last stitch, finish off, leaving tail for sewing
With orangish brown (or dark brown)
1.       Chain 33, join, ch 1, sc in each chain around
2.       Ch 1, 2 sc in sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next 10 sc, join
3.       Ch 1, Sc in 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc join
4.       (this last row will be the front of the mouth-round 1 is the part you will sew onto hat using photo for placement) Ch 2, BPDC around each sc.  Join.   Finish off, leaving long tail for sewing.
Sew the ‘teeth’ onto the mouth part-but leave just a tad of the mouth part hanging over.  Sew the three sides of the ‘teeth’ onto mouth looking at photo for a guide.

Eyes (believe it or not these stinkers took me the longest to figure out how to make them look good)
1.       With black, magic ring, 6 sc in ring, join
2.       Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc; join(12 sc)
3.       Ch1, *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around; join (18 sc), finish off black.
4.       With gray, turn black to wrong side and join in FL only, sc around; join
5.       Ch 1, sc around; join
6.       Repeat round 5
7.       Repeat round 5
8.       Repeat round 5

Silver Cones (make 6-two to be placed on either side of mouth and four on the head)

Working in rounds do NOT join for the silver cones
1.       With gray, magic ring and 3 sc in ring
2.       2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc
3.       2 sc in next, sc in next 2 sc
4.       Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc
5.       Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc
6.       *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * two more times
7.       Sc in 8 sc, finish off leaving tail for sewing.  Look at photo for placement.




Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Wookie Water Bottle Holder



Materials
Yarn:  Worsted, Brown and grey
Hook: H
Tapestry Needle
 This pattern is for personal use only!  

Special Stitches:  Loop Stitch
To make loop stitch:
In the pattern, it will tell you to turn, which may seem odd because it is the wrong side, BUT will be doing this because the loops actually come out the back side.

When you take the loop that is on your finger, pull it up so it is about 1.5” high (or however big you want your loops-just try to keep whatever size of the loops you choose about the same for all of them): 

Stick your hook into the next stitch:
Wrap the entire loop (which is two strands) around your hook and pull through the stitch:


Put your loop off to the right hand side and pull up yarn and pull through the loops on hook:


Then give your loop a little tug just to make sure it isn’t kinked inside the stitch at all:

Strap:

The strap will require you to use two strands.  You will need to pull up colors(and in doing so you are dropping the other one)  You will be putting the strand you are not working with on the top of the last completed row so that you can crochet over the strand you are not using so it is incorporated with your work.  If this confuses you I’ll say this in my best Obi Wan voice, “Move along…this is not the pattern you are looking for….”

1.       Ch 14, dc in 3rd chain (first 2 ch counts as dc) and each chain (12 dc)
2.       Ch 2 (counts as dc throughout), dc in each dc (12 dc)
3.       Ch 2, turn, dc in next dc, join grey, dc in 3 dc pulling up brown in 3rd dc, brown dc in 2 dc pulling up grey in 2nd dc, grey dc in 3 dc pulling up brown in 3rd dc, brown dc in remaining 2 dc.
4.       Ch 2, dc in each dc
5.       Ch 1 brown, ch 1 grey, grey dc in 4 dc pulling up brown in 4th dc, brown dc in 2 dc pulling up grey in 2nd dc, grey dc in 4 dc pulling up brown in 4th dc, brown dc in last dc
6.       Repeat round 5
7.       Ch 2, turn, dc in each dc
8.-32.  Repeat rows 3-7, five more times and then finish off grey
33.  ch 2, turn, dcdec, dc in 8 dc, dcdec
34.  ch 2, turn, dcdec, dc in 4 dc, dcdec
35.  ch 2, turn, dcdec, dc in 2 dc, dcdec
36.  ch 2, turn, dc in 4 dc
Repeat round 36 until strap is desired length; finish off leaving a tail for sewing
Join brown in beginning of strap
1.       Dec, sc in 3 stitches, dec, sc in 3 sttiches, dec
2.       Turn, dec, sc in 2 sc, dec, sc in sc, dec
3.        Dec, sc in 2 sc, dec
4.       Ch 1, sc in 4 sc, finish off leaving a tail for sewing

Bottle Holder
1.       Magic ring, 10 sc in ring; join
2.       Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc; join
3.       (note:  if you are using a smaller water bottle, you may want to omit 3-4 increases on this round-this will fit a larger bottle-it will work for a smaller bottle too, it is just wider than it needs to be) Ch 1, * sc in next sc, 2 sc in next stitch; repeat from * around; join
4.       Ch 1, in BL only, sc in each sc
5.       Ch 1, turn, Loop stitch around.  Do not join.  Continue to loop stitch around until your bottle is desired height, then skip one stitch, sl in next stitch do not finish off!
Finishing edge
1.       Ch 1, sc in each sc; join
2.       Ch 1, sc in 8 sc
3.       Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc
4.       Repeat round 2
5.       Ch 1, turn, sc in 2 sc, ch 3, skip 4 sc, sc in last 2 sc (this will be the hole for the top of the water bottle to stick out of
6.       Ch 1, turn, sc in 2 sc, 4 sc in ch 3 loop, sc in last 2 sc
7.       Turn, dec, sc in 4 sc, dec
8.       Dec, sc in 2 sc, dec
9.       Dec, dec
10.   Ch 1, sc in 2 sc
11.   Repeat round 10
12.   Ch 2, dc in 1st sc, finish off (this completes the button hole)
Sew button onto holder to coordinate with button hole, sew the strap onto the bottle holder.  Insert water bottle, put on your wookie water holder and do your best Chewbacca impersonation by putting your head back and letting your uvula roll!  Do NOT pull any arms out of socket if you happen to play space chess. 

Monday, January 27, 2014

Quilting Schmilting!

I have a lot of very awesome and craft-tastic ladies in my family and some of them like to quilt.  The honor of being allowed to make some squares for our reunion quilt was bestowed upon me (and numerous other fabulous women).  This was my first attempt at any quilt that didn't consist of a simple square-like 4x4 squares sewn together.  The link to the pattern is found here:  http://quiltville.blogspot.com/2005/06/scrappy-mountain-majesties.html



I was never really 'trained' in the sewing arts.  I went, wild-eyed, to the craft store and haphazardly bought a sewing machine, pattern and some material in a pathetic attempt to keep my mind occupied during my hubby's first deployment.  I did learn to sew, a bit and made my daughter and I matching outfits, lots of Halloween costumes and a few other easy items (except for that Scarlet O'Hara dress I had always vowed to make-That was one vow I ALMOST broke!)



Today, I sat myself down to work on the 6 sets of 2 squares and got them all cut and sewn together.  I would love to say that I have been turned on to the quilting arts and that I am looking forward to my next sewing project.  The truth be told:  I am a crocheter at heart.  The entire time I sat there measuring, cutting and stitching I was mentally preparing my next crochet project.  I have a wonderful Wookie Water Holder all cooked up in my mind.  I'd be done with it by now had I not been stuck at that stupid sewing machine.  I'm crossed-eyed now because my machine's light keeps flickering every time my toe touches that pedal.

I'm proud of myself, because I was able to 'get 'er dun' and I can't wait to see the final product, but I am more happy than I am proud-happy that I'm DONE and can finally get back to CROCHET! :)

Saturday, January 25, 2014

Boba Fett's Mandalorian Helmet


The photo below is the first hat I made, the green is all wrong (it was all I had on hand) and I actually had to flip the image because I whoopsied and made it with the antennae on the wrong side!  DOH!  The pattern reflects the proper way to make the hat, I had to make three hats to get it tweaked just right.  This image also shows the optinal 'pointed bottom' that is referred to in the pattern.  I like how it looks-more true to Boba Fett, but it annoys me when I wear it. 


This is a fun little pattern, for personal use only and no selling of finished products is allowed.  I've seen a few patterns out there (for purchase, I have no idea if they have any permissions or not) but I didn't feel they were true to crochet-I prefer to make most of the embellishments of my items out of crochet-not felt...Felt feels like cheating.  ;)  So, I decided to come up with this little pattern for fun...And fun I have had!  Please keep in mind, most of my blogged patterns have not been tested for errors.  They are just my fun little projects I did and I'm sharing what I did with you to share fun.  If you find errors, please feel free to let me know and I'll be sure I fix it up.  I will most likely take this pattern down if people continue to take it too seriously.  When I said I made this for fun, and did not have it tested-I meant it.  I'm happy to include additional tutorials to make it easier for people to follow-but this is a free pattern that was meant for fun....


H hook
Worsted I used Red Heart Super saver for everything except the gold-for that I used caron simply soft because it was the best looking gold:  Green, red, yellow, black, gold, grey
Tapestry needle
Pipe cleaner
Polyfill stuffing
Gauge:  4”=10 dc

Adult sized hat (21.2” hat circumference)
1.       With green: Magic ring, ch 2, 11 dc in ring; join
2.       Ch 2 (counts as dc here and throughout at the beginning of each round), dc in same dc, *2dc in each dc around; join (24 dc)
3.       Ch 2, 2 dc in next dc,*dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc; repeat from * around, join  (36 dc)
4.       Ch 2, dc in next dc, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc; repeat from * around; join(48 dc)
5.       Ch 2, dc in next 7dc, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 8 dc; repeat from * around (just dc in the remaining stitches-there is an odd number on this row); join (53 dc= 21.2”)
6.       Ch 2, dc in each dc around; join
7.       You will be keeping two strands for this round (when called for).  Simply drop the color you are not using and then pick it back up when you need it, dropping the other color.  Ch 2, Dc in 26 dc, join yellow, dc in next dc, * green dc in next dc, yellow dc in next dc, repeat from * 5 more times (7 yellow dc total) finish off yellow, green dc in the remaining  13 dc, ; join finish off green
8.       Join with red, ch 2, dc in each dc, ; join finish off red (53 dc)
9.       With green, ch 2, dc in 6 dc, in BL only:  dc in 26 dc, in both loops:  dc in last 20 dc; join
10.   Ch 2, dc in each dc, join
11.   Repeat round 10
12.   Repeat round 10
13.   Repeat round 10
14.   Repeat round 10; finish off
15.   (if you do not want pointed tip repeat round 10) Point on front of hat beginning: Skip 25 dc, sl st into next dc, sc in next 2 dc, hdc in next 2 dc, dc in next 2 dc, (2tr, ch 2, 2tr) in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, hdc in next 2 dc, sc in next 2 dc, sl in next dc
16.   (if you do not want pointed tip repeat round 10) Ch 1, sc in next 41 stitches, hdc in next 2 hdc, dc in next 2 dc and in next 2 tr  (dc, ch1, dc) in ch 2 space, dc in next 2tr and next 2 dc, hdc in next 2 hdc; join with sl st and finish off (unless you are not doing pointed tip-then carry on to 17)
17.   Ch 1, sc in each dc around, join; finish off

Face Shield
1.       In skipped loops from round 9, join with black in first stitch, ch 1, Sc in each of the 26 loops
2.       Sl in 5 sc, sc in 16 sc, sl in last 5sc; finish off
3.       Find the center of the front black stripe (you want to make sure this part is perfectly lined up to the point on the base of your hat so do be careful when choosing your center 5 stitches.  place stitch marker in center.  Count two stitches to the right of your stitch marker and then join black with sl st into that stitch.  Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc in next 4 stitches
4.       Ch 3, turn, dc in next 4 dc
5.       Ch 3, turn, dc in next 4 dc
6.       Ch 3, turn, dc in next 4 dc
7.       Ch 3, turn, dc in next 4 dc
8.       Ch 3, turn, dc in next 4 dc
9.       Ch 3, turn, dc in next 4 dc (this should bring your black stripe to the bottom of the pointy edge-you don’t’ want to see the tip of the green-if you need to add an extra row that is ok, just repeat round 4), finish off leaving a small tail to tack that black strip into place-don’t go crazy sewing it down, you will do the final sewing in a little bit, using red. 

Trim of shield

1.       With red, join in 1st loop (the same one that you began for the face sheidl), sc in next 3 stitches, hdc in next 3 stitches, dc in next 3 stitches, Tdc in next stitch, 3TDCCLUSTER over next three places (the edge you are currently on, the corner and the side), over the side posts evenly place: 2dc, 2hdc, 6 (or 8 if it is pointed) sc; finish off
2.       Join in opposite corner (right across from where you ended on the base of the black stripe)  over the side posts evenly place: 6 sc (or 8 if it is pointed), 2 hdc, 3 dc, TDCCLUSTER over the side you are currently working on, the corner and the edge), dc in next 3 sttiches, hdc in net 3 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, sl st in last stitch; finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.  This is where you will sew around the face shield to make it stay in place.  Don’t sew it too tightly because it looks fun with a little 3-d effect. J

High Definition sound/motion sensors (gold base of antennae):

1.       With gold, ch 10, sc in 2nd chain and next 7 chains,  (2sc, ch 1, 2sc, ch 1, 2sc) in last chain, sc in next 7 loops, (2sc, ch 1, 2sc, ch 1, 2sc) in beginning loop, join
2.       Ch 1, sc in same sc, sc in next 8 sc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch 1 space, sc in next 3sc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next sc,  sc in next 10 sc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next sc; join



3.       Ch 1, sc in same sc and next 9 sc, (2sc, ch 1, 2 sc)=shell in ch 2 space, sc in 4 sc, shell in next ch 1 space, sc in next 11 sc, shell in next ch 1 space, sc in next 4 sc, shell in next ch 1 space; join and finish off gold leaving a tail. 
Pinch together the two sides of round 1 and whip stitch around that little ridge.  That will give you a nice ridge on your sound/motion sensor.  Continue on with the Binary encoder activation codes


Binary encoder activation codes

4.       With grey, join in top corner, sc in top 8 sc (leave rest of the stitches unworked-you are only adding detail to the little top part
5.       Ch 1, turn, sc in 6 sc; finish off grey, continue on to broadband antennae unit
Broadband antanna unit (black part above High definition sound/motion sensors):
6.       With black, join in last stitch from row 5, ch 1, sc in 8 sc
7.       Sl in first sc, dc in next sc, 3TDC in next sc, dc in next sc, sl in last 2 sc; finish off black

Edging around antennae base:

Join with red in any stitch, sc around putting 3 sc in each corner of the base of the antennae to give a nice crisp corner.  The top part should be rounded so no need for making corners there. ;  finish off, leaving a nice tail for sewing.  Don’t sew on yet, you want to finish the rest of the antennae first
Rangefinder power conduit (the post of the antennae): Worked in a continuous round-do not join
1.       Magic ring, 5 sc in ring
2.       Sc in each sc around
3.       Repeat round 2 until your antennae post is 4.5” long; finish off, leave a tail for sewing
Double up a pipe cleaner and push through the post to keep it stiff.  Sew both ends closed. 

holographic targeting display, targeting range finder (the black and grey rectanglish thing on top of the antennae):
1.      With Black, Ch 5, sc in 2nd chain and next 3 chains (4)
2.       Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc
3.       Repeat round 2
4.       Repeat round 2
5.       Ch 1, turn, in BL only, sc in each sc (this creates an edge)
6.       Ch 1, turn, in FL only, sc in each sc (this creates another edge)
7.       Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc; finish off black leave tail for sewing 
8.       With grey, ch 1, turn, sc in each sc
9.       Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc
10.   Ch 1, in FL only, sc in each sc (this creates another edge)
11.   Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc; finish off
Lightly stuff your holographic targeting display and whipstitch closed.


laying flat:
 Lightly stuffed:
 Fold over (grey part is the bottom-the black is the side-think of it is a sort of triangle-the top will angle downward)
 after whip stitching (of course I was in a hurry and my whip stitching is awful here but you should get the gist).



 Attach to the top of the post and then attach the top of your post to the base of the antennae.  (see pictures for placement).  Lightly stuff your antennae base and stitch onto hat. Use photo for placement.  If you try to stitch the base any higher on your hat it will wind up curving due to the curvature of the head-do not put it any higher than shown, or the force will not be in balance. If the base is a little longer than your hat, that's OK, just fold it under at the bottom and stitch closed-no one will know but you. ;)






Thursday, January 23, 2014

Vickie's Slouch Hat

This is my very first ‘official’ blog post.  I am very excited that I finally decided to do this and am very hopeful that this pattern will be useful to someone. J  If you have any questions, feel free to leave me a comment, I promise to try to respond as soon as I figure this thing out!

I made this pattern for a wonderful lady that likes to keep me on my toes when it comes to patterns-she usually has requests and I have to figure out how to make them. :)  I've now made three different hats, so I could check and recheck my pattern.  I find that I REALLY love how this pattern works because it is all done in rounds and you don't get any ugly parts (sometimes the turning stitches look oogly).


Below:  Using Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable, dragonfly






Vickie’s Slouch Hat
By:  Dragonbird Creations

Worsted (I used caron simply soft-I prefer this or anything lighter for a slouch hat since it is not so stiff): I used the color ‘heather’ for this project.  I've begun work on my third hat from this pattern and this time I switched to Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable, color:  dragonfly,  and I LOVE how it is turning out.  I will post  pics as soon as I finish!
Hook:  H
tapestry needle

Notes:  When you crochet in the BL of the hdc in this pattern, you can go through the back two loops (the furthest loop in back is really the back of the hdc but it is easier to just go through both of those...)  this will leave you with one single line going around and and around the hat.  OR you can crochet in only the BPL of the hdc (the furthest loop in back of the hdc) which will leave you a nice little double line that swirls around.  For the images in this pattern, I did the first option.  When you get to the decrease rounds, although it says 'dec evenly around' you don't have to get psycho perfect on it-no need for math, just stick a decrease about a quarter of the way around-truly it does not matter if it is perfect-just don't stick them all in one spot.

  1.        Chain 65 (or desired length for a snuggly fit around head-my head is 21.5 and this works for me); join to form ring, ch 2 (counts as hdc for this and rest of pattern), hdc in each chain; join (64 hdc)
  2.         hdc in BL of each hdc, do NOT join-for the rest of this pattern, until specified you will use a stitch marker to mark the end of each round  (64 hdc)
  3. .        hdc in BL of each hdc,  (64 hdc)
  4.       hdc in BL of each hdc,   (64 hdc)
  5.         hdc in BL of each hdc,   (64 hdc)
  6.      hdc in BL of each hdc,   (64 hdc)
  7.         hdc in BL of each hdc,   (64 hdc)
  8.        hdc in BL of each hdc,  (64 hdc)
  9. .       ,hdc in BL of each hdc,   (64 hdc)
  10. .    hdc in BL of each hdc,   (64 hdc)
  11. .    hdc in BL of each hdc,  (64 hdc)
  12. .   hdc in BL of each hdc,   (64 hdc)
  13. .    hdc in BL of each hdc,   (64 hdc)
  14. .    hdc in BL of each hdc,   (64 hdc)
  15. .   (dec round-place 4 hdcdec evenly around this round)  hdc in BL of each hdc,   (60 hdc)
  16. .   Repeat 15 (56 hdc)
  17. .    hdc in BL of each hdc,  (56 hdc)
  18. .    hdc in BL of each hdc,   (56 hdc)
  19. .    hdc in BL of each hdc,   (56 hdc)
  20. .   Repeat round 15 (52 hdc)
  21. .    hdc in BL of each hdc; (52hdc)
  22. .       Repeat round 19 (52hdc)
  23. .       Repeat round 15 (48 hdc)
  24.           Repeat round 19 (48 hdc)
  25.         Repeat round 15 (44 hdc)
  26.         Repeat round 19 (continue repeating this round as many times as you want-if you want your hat to be longer or more 'slouchy') now we will join-SKIP one hdc and sl st in next hdc  (51 hdc) do NOT finish off

Finishing edge on top of hat:

1.       Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining 5 sc (6sc); sl into BL of  hdc in hat, sl st in next BL of hdc on hat








2.       Turn, sc in BL of each sc (6sc)
3.       Ch 1, turn, sc in BL of each sc, sl st in BL of hdc in hat and next BL of hdc in hat
4.       Continue repeating rows 2-3 until you read the beginning of the finishing edge-if you still want to decrease a little-you can chose to sl st in 3 hdc instead of 2 a few times, leave a long tail for sewing and finish off.

Connect first and last rows of finishing edge.







Find the four quarters of the finishing edge.



Whipstitch from quarter to quarter-you should now have 4 ‘corners’


take each corner and bring to the center-whipstitch together and finish off.






Optional finishing edge on base of hat:
Sc around
©Dragonbird Creations  This pattern is for personal use only.  You have permission to sell any items you make using this pattern.  Do not distribute, copy or sell this pattern, photos, descriptions or anything other content included in this pattern.